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Welcome

In the spring of 2020 the world shut down confronted with an immense public health crisis. It meant I couldn't eat out, be fed by friends, or even go to the store more than once a week. I started a weekly newsletter to document my experience over the span of that unusual period in our history.

I've decided to continue that on a slightly different basis while slowly transitioning my paper notebooks into a digital format. Each month, I'll do a write up in the What's Cooking section, the latest just below. In the Recipes section, I'll slowly add and refine the formulas for what I cook and bake.


What I'm Cooking

December 2024

We’re nearly at the winter solstice, so there’s an end in sight to the short days. I don’t mind the cold, but I don’t love only getting seven hours of daylight.


Chocolate Hazelnut Cake

This is another great cake that I’ve had many times at the River Cafe. Among the tweaks I’ve made to the recipe over the years, it’s a lot easier to start by whipping up the egg whites and then setting them aside....

December 30, 2024

Linguine al colatura

Colatura di alici (“anchovy drippings”) is a fish sauce, much like the Thai-style fish sauce that I was more familiar with. That said, colatura is very different from Thai fish sauce....

December 3, 2024

Cranberry Sauce

While a certain part of me feels the nostalgic draw of a can of wobbly cranberry sauce, once I had made and tried making a more grown up version, there was no going back....

November 28, 2024

Parker House Rolls

These are effectively a brioche dough with a little butter and a book fold to give them their characteristic shape. As far as I’m concerned, they’re essential for Thanksgiving. Though they’re great at any time of year....

November 28, 2024

Chicken Stock

Great stock makes such a big difference to a dish. With good stock, your soups and sauces will taste so much better. While I’ve sketched out a specific recipe here, it’s pretty flexible....

November 26, 2024