Chicken

This is a sort of dish with multiple refractions. I got it from the Ottolenghi team, and have begun adapting it to my own whims, and they took inspiration from Mexican cooking, even if it’s not one specific dish....

I’m not claiming this is the apotheosis of jerk chicken. The people of Jamaica have nothing to worry about. But it’s pretty tasty, is easy enough to do on a weeknight, and doesn’t require faffing around with briquets....

I have such a funny relationship with this dish. In France, it has a reputation for being a cliché: the kind of thing people haul out to impress their friends at a dinner party....

The Slanted Door, in San Francisco, is one of my favorite restaurants. Possibly the first time I ever ate there, many years ago, I ordered the lemongrass chicken, and I set about trying to recreate it....