Pan Bagnat

While I’m sure there’s a tourist board or local association that claims there’s one true recipe for pan bagnat, I think the true spirit of the sandwich is something looser. At least that’s what I’ve gotten from spending time in Nice and doing a bit of reading....

August 16, 2024

Lacto Rourou

Like many of the best ideas, this one was born out of a need to clear out my refrigerator. I had a print container with a bunch of leftover fermentation medium from a batch of lacto-fermented strawberries, and I needed to use it up....

August 9, 2024

Oil Poached Confit Cod

Oil poaching fish gives it a really wonderful flavor and texture, but doing it the traditional way always feels very wasteful to me because you have to use such an incredible quantity of oil that you then have to toss....

May 5, 2024

Punitions

This is a favorite little biscuit from the wonderful people at Poilâne. The ingredients list is minimal, they’re really easy to make, and they taste great. You can really use any cutter you like....

February 7, 2024

Tarte aux pêches

Longtime readers will recall that on a trip to Nice, France, I had a transcendent peach tart. After nearly a decade of tinkering and dozens of peach tarts later, I think I have something that comes close to its inspiration....

August 1, 2023

Flaugnarde

After doing some research, I learned that a clafoutis is meant to be made with cherries. If you’re using the same technique with other stone fruit, it’s called a flaugnarde. The name comes from the Occitan word fleunhe or flaunhard, meaning soft or duvet....

June 25, 2023

Apple Tart (Tarte aux pommes à la doubienne)

This is, with some adaptations and tweaks, a recipe from Raymond Blanc, the French-British chef. It’s his take on the simple apple tart his mother used to make. In honor of that culinary tradition, I’ve given this a name in honor of the region where he grew up....

June 24, 2023

Pâte brisée

While I don’t totally understand the soft matter physics at work, this is easily the best and, importantly, easiest tart base to work with. This is an unsweetened shortcrust pastry. That tends to lend it to savory tarts, but it can also work for a very sweet filling....

June 24, 2023

Poulet Basquaise

I have such a funny relationship with this dish. In France, it has a reputation for being a cliché: the kind of thing people haul out to impress their friends at a dinner party....

December 20, 2022

Madeleines

I spent years — literally decades — trying to figure out how to consistently bake great madeleines. Then, by pure luck, I found this amazing blog, Je pense donc je cuis, that took a rigorous science-based approach to the cakes....

December 19, 2021